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Chef Culinary Network Newsletter



Worldwide Development Support to Chefs, Restaurateurs & Hotels             Version française

CCN Newsletter - Profiles in Culinary Success
A professional insight in the most successful business models in the F&B industry

December 2009

Michel Cloes
&
Naomi Barry





Profiles, financials,
and objective analysis
of the
most profitable restaurants in the world and what makes them great.

Read more...

 

  Upcoming
 Events

Meet the CCN Team at:

Salon de l'hôtellerie et de la gastronomie de Nuremberg du 16 au 19 janvier 2010


 

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The Anatomy of Success

by Naomi Barry in Paris

The Tale of a Fancy Cake


"La France : Laissez-lui faire des choses frivoles sérieusement et gaiement les choses sérieuses".
 
France. Let her perform frivolous things seriously and serious things gaily.  Montesquieu, 1689-1755

The most celebrated cake in France in the realm of Haute Patisserie is a Fancy Cake named Opera which made its debut on the grand Party Circuit 54 years ago. One does not generally affix the adjective Chic to a cake. However, Opera is Chic the way one knows Dior was chic or Chanel was chic. It is a very Parisian quality and recognizable immediately. Its fans are a wide and varied group. Surprisingly the cake is a big seller among the swells of Tokyo who find it divinely "shibuyi".  The Look pleases their aesthetic of pared down beauty and the delicate combination of tastes appeals to the Japanese who are notoriously fond of sweets. Their native confections of red bean paste are exquisite but you would never turn to them for a sugar high.

There have been a number of attempts to copy the Opera but the original one and only rests with the elegant pastry firm of Dalloyau, whose display windows are among the show-stoppers on the fashionable Faubourg. Saint Honoré in Paris. Dalloyau is jealous about its Opera and is regularly in litigation against the Big Players who claim to have invented it. According to Nadine Bernardé, the charming but feisty owner of Dalloyau, the cake was created by her father Cyriaque Gavillon and it is not in public domain.

Young Gavillon had been working as a pastry chef at the Hotel Ritz, the domain of the great Escoffier. In 1949 he left the Ritz so he could be his own boss and bought a modest bakery named Dalloyau. The little pastry shop had never been more than a neighborhood affair but it had been around for a long time. Cyriaque liked the idea that he could legally stamp on his card...Dalloyau, Founded in 1802. The date evoked a pleasing importance. 1802 marked the beginning of the return of the Émigrés who had fled the Revolution. the Émigrés brought back with them the Parisian tastes for Fashion, Culture, and Beaux Arts.

Paris in the 1950's was exploding with talents. Everything was New, New, New. There was the excitement of The New Look in Couture and the New Wave in Cinema. The cabarets sparkled with wit. Gavillon decided the time was right to redesign French pastry. For years the Fancy Cake had been a high round affair as lavishly decorated as the hats pretty women wore to the races of Longchamps and Chantilly. Gavillon spent his days expanding his shop and its services. Nights he experimented with cakes that did away with the old-fashioned fussiness.


Read more...


People Buzz

                                  
Beverly Hills, CA

Thomas Keller (The French Laundry in the Napa Valley & Per Se in NYC) one of the most recognized American chefs, opens Bouchon in Beverly Hills, California after the original rendition of a Lyon bistro in Yountville, CA and a second act in Las Vegas. Rorry Herman is the local chef with Scott Wheatfill, pastry chef and Alex Weil as head sommelier. Keller, a staunch supporter of young culinary talents through his involvement in the Bocuse d'Or competition is currently hosting Cesar Troisgros, a promising budding chef, son of Michel's from of the eponymous lineage of French chefs from Roanne.    


Paris
David Ridgway: The Head Sommelier at La Tour d'Argent overlooking Notre Dame in Paris was master of ceremonies at this month's auction of 18,000 bottles of wine and old cognacs from the collection of 450,000 rich historical cellar.  On sale: Vosne Romanee, Nuits Saint Georges, Volnay and several Burgundy 1855 Grands Crus. Third-generation manager Andre Terrail has recently undertaken a revival of the venerable institution created in 1582. Proceeds of the auction will help in securing promising 2009 millesimes and make room for a more diversified collection of new world wines in order to respond to more contemporary tastes and flavors.


Reims, Champagne
Philippe Mille: The Mille Touch at last at Les Crayeres in Reims this New Year's Eve? Six months after a change of the guards at the famous Reims property this summer (Chef Didier Elena left for La Chèvre d'Or and Philippe Mille, deputy chef of Yannick Alleno from Le Meurice Hotel in Paris took over) the chef is to unveil his personal menu paired with Champagnes - what else?- on December 31st!    This last december sunday, the lunch crowd  was spare and the bill very hefty.  The perennial couple of tables of devout Japanese admirers of sous-chef Hideaki helped warm up the atmosphere. Pastry chef Sébastien Leproux deserves a special accolade for his creative desserts. With the new Brasserie concept on the property draining the crowds, and with a model for the restaurant out of synchronization with today's tastes for simple and affordable offerings and service, the question in 2010 will be sustainability of the economic model.  The property is owned by Belgian Champagne magnate Vranken and is part of the Relais & Chateaux association.

.

Product Buzz

See our 2009 selection


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Une erreur technique a pu empêcher certains d'entre vous d'accéder à

l'article sur l'Atelier Robuchon de notre Newsletter de novembre.  Cette

erreur est rectifiée.  Vous trouverez l'entièreté de cet article en cliquant sur

le lien suivant :

 

www.ccn-world.com/Articles

 

 

En outre, je profite de ce message pour annoncer l'attribution du Prix

Nadine de Rothschild au superbe livre Grands Crus Classes - Grands

Chefs ce jeudi 12 novembre à Paris.  

 

CCN représente son auteur Sophie Brissaud, que nous saluons pour un

travail de recherche de grande qualité dans cet ouvrage commissionné par

le Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855.

 

Nous en reparlerons dans la Newsletter de décembre.

 

 

 

 

Chef Culinary Network Newsletter 12.11.2009



Worldwide Development Support to Chefs, Restaurateurs & Hotels             Version française

CCN Newsletter - Profiles in Culinary Success
A professional insight in the most successful business models in the F&B industry

November 2009

Michel Cloes, CEO
Naomi Barry, Editor

Introducing. . .



Profiles, financials,
and objective analysis
of the
most profitable restaurants in the world and what makes them great.

Read more...

 

  Upcoming
 Events

Meet the CCN Team at:
San Sebastian Gastronomika





 

 Advertising

Do you want to advertise?

Counter Culture

by Naomi Barry in Paris

The Success of Breaking the Rules


After six years, Joël Robuchon's trail blazing l'Atelier is still the most sought after restaurant in Paris. There have to be reasons why. In 2003 Robuchon's return from retirement was awaited with the interest of Mlle Chanel's return from retirement two decades before. Curiosity was intense but the buzz was mostly negative.

"He won't last two months" was the prediction.


One day in August, feeling lonesome because all my friends were out of town, I decided to treat myself to lunch at l'Atelier which operates full steam seven days a week, 12 months a year. Incredible, in a town where vacation is sacred.

Paris in August is wonderful or awful. Business is down to a flutter. Butcher, baker, and most of the neighborhood restaurants are 'en vacances' until September. In the shuttered, quasi-abandoned city, l'Atelier was blessedly open and full as usual. Hep visitors from half the world and the odd Parisian in town for one reason or another. The atmosphere was a relaxed We Happy Few. The place was packed.

"Amazing", I said to Eric LeCerf, one of the chef-partners who was at the helm that day. "I thought nobody was in Paris. What is your secret formula?"

"Our figures are 15% higher than this time last year. In fact our figures have been going up steadily since the beginning." "Before we opened we were nervous. It was a risk. We had staked our entire savings and our future on this radical concept." LeCerf sounded gratefully surprised.

The success of the pioneer team has led to the string of l'Ateliers, Robuchon has since opened on three continents.

Read more...


People Buzz

Barcelona
Opening in November: International star woman chef from Catalonia, Carme Ruscalleda will be at the helm of Moments by Ruscalleda at the the new Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Barcelona.  We met with the Hotel manager who was on tour throughout Europe to present the new establishment earlier this month.


Paris
Two-star chef Jean-Francois Piege, after a 5-year stint at the famed
Crillon Hotel in Paris, opens his new restaurant at chic brasserie Thoumieux in chic 7th Arrondissement in Paris. Hotel Thoumieux, above, is undergoing major renovation work, including an upcoming higher-end restaurant destined for Piege as well.  The Costes family which operates over 100 restaurants in Paris is underwriting the project. The chef also publishes with Flammarion this month his latest book: Jean-Francois Piege in your Kitchen where he sets out 120 simple home recipes as well as 30 other basic recipes.

Shanghai
Jacques & Laurent Pourcel, the famed twin brothers from Montpellier who successfully combine French South West cuisine with Asian products and flavors internationally have been appointed to manage the restaurant of the French Pavillon at the World's Fair in Shanghai in 2010.  They are no strangers to the Shanghai scene where they were partners in a restaurant for four years.  This come back may very well mean setting foot again in a new local venture.

Las Vegas
After a first partnership in Hong Kong, French chef Pierre Gagnaire is due to celebrate his second venture with the latest new hot property of Mandarin Oriental in Las Vegas this December.  The new restaurant, called Twist by Pierre Gagnhaire will be located on the 23rd floor with a dazzling view of the city.

Product Buzz

Snail Caviar, a new premium French product

Known as "Perle Nacrée",  snail caviar is a new premium product sought after by the most discerning gourmets. Snail eggs are harvested by hand and selected with great care at a few snail farms in France. A complete surprise and original decorative product, the flavors stem of truffle and autumn oak leaves.  Early trials were too strong in earthy flavors to some critics and chefs, an element the snail farmers improved in the recent harvests.

"It was the snail caviar which star chef Jacques Pourcel from Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier used to finish off his dish of courgette flowers, yoghurt and summer fruits which came as the biggest surprise to the audience at the recent CCN summit Gastronomy by the Seine last summer in Paris and had everyone heading to the large stand occupied by its sole producer, De Viridi, (www.deviridi.com)

Read more...

 

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Weekly Ezine Volume11, Issue 40 | 2 October 2009 - 8 October 2009



Ezine Volume 11 Issue 40
2 October - 8 October 2009

Are You What You Eat?

The adage “You are what you eat” seems to be ringing especially loud recently with large-scale events like Living In Style International 2009, JING – Asia On The Edge and the ongoing...

Miele Guide 2009/2010 is Launched!

The new Miele Guide 2009/2010 was unveiled at a star-studded extravaganza at The Fullerton Hotel on 30 September. Guest chefs Takashi Kimura, Rahul Akerkar, Diego Martinelli and Janice Wong ensured...

East Meets West at Majestic

Renowned Portugese Chef Nuno Mendes’s dedication towards the pursuit of fine cuisine can be seen from how he works on farms to gain greater knowledge of food. Trained at the prestigious...


 

 


Restaurant
Rocks Urban Grill & Bar

Perched at the second floor of The Sail, Rocks Urban Grill & Bar exudes a minimalist charm with its glass walls, exposed pipelines and its...

Wine
2007 Santa Rita 120 Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep garnet-purple colour. Intense aromas of warm blackcurrant, blackberry compote, liquorice and cinnamon. The full bodied palate has plenty of juicy...

Recipe
Braised Australian Lamb Neck with Sweet Red Onions and Rosemary Roasted Garlic Served with Balsamic-Dried Mango Chutney


 

Video
Braised Kobe Short Ribs With Rosemary Butter Sauce

 

© 1996 - 2009. All rights reserved.

 

 

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Chef Culinary Network Newsletter 02.10.2009



 

Worldwide Development Support to Chefs, Restaurateurs & Hotels             Version française

CCN Newsletter - Profiles in Culinary Success
A professional insight in the most successful business models in the F&B industry

October 2009

Michel Cloes, CEO
Naomi Barry, Editor

Introducing. . .



Profiles, financials,
and objective analysis
of the
most profitable restaurants in the world and what makes them great.

Read more...

 

  Upcoming
 Events

Meet the CCN Team at The Restaurant Show - London

 

 Advertising

Do you want to advertise?

The Anatomy of Success

by Naomi Barry in Paris

Does the Third Star Make a Difference?


Eric Frechon is now seven months into his dizzying position as France's latest 3-star Michelin chef. For the first five months - instead of exuberance and excitement - he had been feeling uneasy and unsure, worried that the people  who normally patronize 3-star restaurants wouldn't accept his style of cooking.


"Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are," observed Brillat-Savarin nearly two centuries ago. These days it is hard to tell. Paris has gone fusion. The edges are blurred and you can't judge by the plate who is who any more.

But with Frechon's ascension, an unexpected group of old-standard gastronomes began to reappear. Word was buzzed around in private circles that the great traditional cuisine of France was back.You could find it in the restaurant of the Hotel Bristol where the tall rangy Frechon had bucked the so-called contemporary trends and was applying his impeccable techniques to dishes of "le terroir", an untranslatable term which the excellent news commentator Roger Cohen defines as "a combination of soil, hearth and tradition that links most French people to a particular place".

Read more. . .

People Buzz


Paris:
Meryl Streep and movie director Nora Ephron at private premiere of Julie/Julia for dignitaries of the food world in Paris.  



Brussels:
Two-star seafood specialist, Chef Yves Mattagne, after a successful launch of his new cooking school Atelier Yves Mattagnes opens new concept Fresh Mama: Shop | Eat | Learn around seasonality at exquisitely restored historical customs building Tours & Taxis


Vancouver, BC:
Chef David Hawksworth formerly of Ouest Restaurant, Isola, The Square and L'Escargot in London to open Hawksworth at the legendary Georgia Hotel & Private Residences. Munge Leung Design reinvented a chic modern boutique environment.

Beijing: Irish Chef Brian McKenna, formerly of The Blue Lobster at the Shangri-La in Beijing to take over Super Ganbei restaurant & banquet events at UCCA, the famed Ullens Center for Contemporary Arts created by Belgian collectors Baron Guy and Myriam Ullens. Brian served exclusive 8-course signature molecular tasting menu at slick Terra Roku restaurant in Bangkok in September.

Chef Albert Adria, "ideologist" of Spanish restaurant elBulli, will be the guest of honor at Spanish-inspired dinner hosted by McKenna and Da Dong of Da Dong Beijing Roast Duck Restaurants during a 3-day culinary event to be held at UCCA. 
  

Product Buzz

Did you know that the 'black' pigs were the most common breed in England in the late 18th century and until recently were an endangered breed in the UK with less than 400 sows remaining? These numbers have since seen a steady increase due to expert breeders in the Netherlands and in Belgium. The breed is known for its high-quality yield of meat, which is slightly darker than ordinary pork. The fat is waxy, marbled and white, giving the pork its clean taste. The taste and succulence of this pork has to be tried to be believed. A favorite of Queen Victoria who had a prized boar named 'Ace of Spades'.
 
In the quiet Belgian country side of Western Flanders, the Danis Group has devoted love and care to raise this high quality meat. Quality overrides quantity here and integrating on a small scale the production of pork emanating from the breeding of the "Duke of Berkshire" respects the animal and has been a favorite of chefs looking for premium pork flavors.
 
"I've been waiting a long time for pork of such superior quality.
The meat of The Duke of Berkshire is marvelously marbled, full of flavor and of a wonderful texture."

Chef Geert Van Hecke
(De Karmeliet ***, Bruges, Belgium)

 

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